Hedging your bets: The Kepler Track

In the game of Gin Rummy, the goal is to get three of kind/three of a kind/four of kind or a flush (or a combination thereof). It is accomplished by picking up and discarding cards one at a time. It is in your best interest early in the game to pick up as many cards as possible instead of passing to the next player. By doing so, later in the game, the odds are in your favor to pick up more than one card that would work to complete your sets. By leaving our hand open to both a king and an Ace instead of just one of those cards you are in fact hedging your bets that one of those two cards will come along. And that was indeed what Heather (from England) and Ryan (from Korea) and I did on the second day of the Kepler Track. Hedged our bets.

We woke up that morning at Luxmore Hut to a nasty wind and rain blowing over the mountain. It was the morning of our second day on the track. The beautiful views we had of Fiordland mountains that we had before us were now replaced with a vail of cloud and rain. The weather forecast brought to us by the live-in hut warden had predicted a breakup in the weather by this afternoon. But as one spends enough time in NZ one notices that the weather forecasts were just something for the hut wardens to do. We were in Fiordlands National Park. The mountains here make their own weather. Who can predict that? Heather wanted to head out right away despite the outcome but I convinced that we should wait. Cards were broken out and I proceeded to teach them the game of Gin Rummy. By waiting to to take off for the second hut we were giving ourselves the chance that the weather would break later in the afternoon at precisely the time we would be exposed on the ridges of the Kepler Mountains. If that weather didn't break, then we were no worse of then when we started. At least this way we were giving ourselves more good chances for weather and essentially hedging our bets. An Ace and King as opposed to just a King.

And it paid off. By midday the clouds were wanting to burn off, culminating in only small isolated patches of rain, affording the views that the Kepler track is known for on its second day. And something more. Because of the patch work of rain and sun that ensued by midday, the mountains afforded us a rare glimpse into their beauty. A rainbow captured on film. It was a pure New Zealand moment and one that we would have missed had we not hedged our bets.

The Kepler Track is the newest of the nine great walks in New Zealand. I have no idea what constitutes a great walk as opposed to just a walk in the woods but once they do become a great walk they become expensive and touristy. Often times they are more about who you meet than the walk itself. This because the huts are booked in the same order so you are essentially walking the track with the same 40 people everyday. I jumped on the Kepler because I had four days to kill before my Milford Track reservation and it was conveniently located as a "loop" outside of Te Anau where I was to pick up the Milford as well. I met Ryan and Heather on the transport out to the trail head and we stuck together for the duration. Most hike it in four days, I did it in three and skipped the last hut.

The first day is mostly a walk in the bush. Most of the Elevation is gained this day ending at Luxmore Hut. There are these caves up there that you can just sort of wonder into. And the three of us did so for about 2 kilometers worth. Poor Ryan didn't know what he was getting into as he was wearing flip-flops. ("jangles" to the Kiwis). I suppose that is the difference between NZ and USA. Had these caves been in the US there would have been waivers signed, and guides hired. Here it was like..oh way there is some caves to explore for that extend more than a mile. Don't get lost.

Day two is the "bow down" to the mountains day as you spend the entire day exposed on the ridges and saddles of the Kepler Mountains before descending down into bush (that looks much like Machu-picchu) into the Iris Burn Valley and spending the night in the Irish Burn Hut. It was here at this hut in the middle of the night that I heard the call of the Kiwi Bird for the first time. Very rare and nocturnal bird this NZ national bird is on the verge of extinction Due mostly to introduced species in New Zealand.

The third day is merely a walk in the rain forest along the shore of Lake Te Anau through the Iris Burn Valley. Not much to talk about there.

The Kepler would turn out to be my favorite "Great Walk" mostly due to its challenging nature and great views. But as you will soon learn this is merely the beginning of my adventures in the bush.

Distance walked on the Kepler: 60Km (37.28 Miles)

Distance walked so far in NZ: 89.80 Km (55.80 Miles).

Size does matter.

First of all. Get your mind out of the gutter. I know you all clicked on that title as soon as you saw it. Second of all, I am referring to the population of New Zealand as a whole, not the size of certain objects that may or may not "enhance" you life. Enough said.

But here is something where size matters. The size of my thumb. Yes. I have taken to "hitching" around New Zealand. On the advice of many people I have thrown all caution to the wind, freed myself from the ordinary and put my destiny in the hands of complete strangers. And I am not going to lie that I am enjoying every minute of it. (not to mention saving lots of money). Now before you freak out (mom and dad) read on. I wouldn't dream of this if it were not New Zealand. There is amazing trust here among everyone that you find nowhere else. And perhaps we can learn a thing or two from it.

Take Bryce for example. Bryce is a 26 year old Kiwi who works in the NZ film industry. He happened upon me on the Junction of 80 and 6 after my hike up to Mueller Hut. Bryce was returning a catering truck (go figure) back to Queenstown (which is where I needed to go) and I gather he was just bored and needed someone to talk to. He was very intelligent, owned a research company on the side, had lived in California for a while, and he also worked for the film industry. So we had a lot to talk about. We talked about everything from the fact that the US government actually aided Al Qaeda before 9/11 to the fact that it is really easy to pick up Kiwi girls. (not that I would know first hand). He even offered me job on a Bollywood set for a day or two which I might take him up on. I learned more about what it means to be Kiwi than I would ever riding a bus.

Or take Sally for example. She was the "open hearted" Kiwi I met at Mueller hut. After spending only one crowded night together in the hut she gave what most would call back in the states a "complete stranger" (me) her camping stove upon hearing that I would be doing a track that has huts without burners. Her logic you ask? "Awe..just return it to me when you come and stay at my place in Nelson". "And if you don't make it to Nelson just send it to me in the mail!". Not to mention she gave me a ride to the intersection where Bryce picked me up. So not only do I have a back country stove to use, I have few nights stay in Nelson which I wanted to go to anyway.

Or take "Last Resort". The hostel I had such a hard time leaving in Queenstown. Sometimes you just find a place that speaks to you, the people and the atmosphere and you end up spending a few extra days. I have been a bit taken a back at the hostels in NZ. They are really great, but there is something "institutional" about them. And I didn't figure it out until the Last Resort. They are all too big. Not the Last Resort. It only had 18 beds, a great common space(with an amazing flat screen and movie collection), and a wicked manager named Heather (from Dublin) that had the driest sense of humor. People met each other her because it was small. Coming back after Mt. Cook to watch the inauguration and to spend a few extra days I really did feel as if I was coming home.

Or take the fact that it is actually illegal to sue someone in NZ. Or the fact that at most stores when you don't have the right amount of change they usually say " no worries" and that tea that was going to cost you $2.50 now costs you $2.00. Or when I hitch and I offer to at least buy them a coffee for giving me a ride. They actually laugh at me.

My point:

Size really does matter. New Zealand's population's is roughly 4 million people. That is only half the people who live in New York City alone. At some point when populations get to a certain point, people start to forget that other people are "people" too. Kiwis are so laid back as a result of their low population. When their are too many sheep in the pasture there is no more grass to graze (or little for a lot of sheep) and the sheep start looking at each other as the competition.
We humans may be animals but we don't have to act like them. A Kiwi wouldn't harm a hitcher or do harm at all because everyone would know immediatly who did it.

There are always exceptions to the rules and this is a generalization. But those exceptions come from individuals and rarely the mentality of a whole society. For Kiwis its just the way it is. To be kind to the environment around them. And that includes people. They are lucky. They have inherited one of the most beautiful places in the world. And perhaps their is a correlation there. For I see the beauty of this place inherent in every Kiwi I meet.

If I could grow wings. I would.

I believe that their are still those who believe that man was not meant to fly.

Those people are stupid.

It was a cloudy rainy day in Queenstown but Rachel and I were determined to do so. Besides Queenstown is the adventure capitol of the world and I had never jumped off a cliff before and soared like a bird. We chose Skytrek mainly because they had been taking single fixed wing hang- gliders off the mountains in Queenstown for 18 years. Ian was my pilot and he actually owned the company. That put me at ease. Not that I was nervous. More worried that we wouldn't get off the ground because of the weather. But sure enough Ian was determined to try despite the rain.

Our Launch Pad:

"The Remarkables". Stunning raw and jagged this chain of mountains are appropriately named and are the perfect backdrop for Queenstown. It took a while for the pilots to set up their gliders so in the meantime I stood atop the Remarkables in awe of the wind and sheer drop before me. I was to go first. I was strapped into the Leonardo Da Vinci looking contraption next to Ian and we pulled ourselves up the the edge-the flyer lurching in the wind ready to fly as if it was telling us to get the show on the road. And then we sat their looking over that edge for nearly 20 minutes waiting to get clearance from the airport. (it was nearby and they didn't want us hitting any planes).

"So..how many people have you killed in this thing?", I ask to kill the time. "Only three" Ian dryly replies. Still no word from the Airport. The wind is rushing up the mountain into our faces. I look down and ponder what would happen if the Bernoulli Effect for some cosmic reason decided not to work and we had no lift to our wing strapped to my back. Somewhere deep in my throat a lump develops.

Still no word from the airport.

"So..how do you steer this thing?" My attempt at small talk does little to kill my anticipation. The wind and rain blows harder. The fixed wing jerks harder wanting to fly, like a dog begging to be off its leash. "What Steering?", Ian calmly replies. His humor somehow falls flat on my nervousness. I start choking on that lump. It would have been better had we just jumped.

A crackle comes over the radio. We have clearance. On queue, as if I commanded it, the sky suddenly opens up. A batch of blue has found this side of the mountain. The rain stops and the clouds break over Lake Wakatipu and the valley below.

Step one, Step two and my legs were no longer on solid ground. The next thing I knew we were airborne as if God himself had reached down and picked us up with his own hand. Its was the smoothest transition to flight and I realized that the ground was 700 meters below my stomach. The lump in my throat fell out, replaced only with smiles and the beauty of the spectacle before me. Ten minutes, two stalls, and two dives later my feet (or should I say my stomach) was safely on the valley floor below.

"Too Short" I say...as with most things..."Too Short".

"Can we do it again?"

The Mountians Win Again

There is just something about the mountains. They have a way of washing you clean. Of striping away the dust and grim that accumulates and leaving you polished and light. For many years they have been my scouring pad. They are unpredictable yet gentile. Always changing. Unforgiving in their rawness. And yet sometimes they give you a gift. A single moment that will never be the same. A moment that is just for you and is never repeated. A moment that is gone unless it is captured in a single frame.
Sunrise on Mt. Cook. January 20th, 2009

Rachel and I said our goodbyes until March today. She getting in the car to return to Christchurch, myself heading up the trail to Mueller Hut-the summit of Mt. Oliver. As the crow flys just across the valley and Hooker Glacier at the foot of Mt. Cook-The tallest mountain in the Southern Alps. It was a short yet steep track, often times having to climb with all fours. But the view and experience overwhelming. I spent the night and a whole 24 hours playing upon the peaks and snow fields that surround Mueller Hut. (I owe Gary Wilson a big thanks for planting the idea). I met some really great people up there as well. A fantastic couple from Belgium, a playful guy from Indonesia, an openhearted Kiwi. It even snowed. I was at home playing amongst the rocks, watching the clouds whip over top the passes and listening to the distant snowfalls cracking off some far off glacier. I was on top of the world. ER..at least on top of the southern hemisphere. If I were to imagine a place to go to when you die. Than perhaps it would be something like this. I can finally feel my mood lifting now that I am doing what I came here for. Playing in New Zealand's most amazing places. For more on my climb and the Mueller Hut click here.

Tramping (Hiking) in New Zealand is quite easy. This is mainly due to their fantastic hut system. There is also not a single animal (besides the annoying sandfly) that you have to worry about your safety with. Every track (trail) has a system of huts that you reserve and stay in each night. This makes your pack very light as you don't need a tent, water filtration or a lot of warm gear. (you still need a sleeping back though which I purchased in Christchurch). The hut system is both a blessing and a curse. They mainly have them to limit the number of people that walk the tracks and protect the environment. A testament of the worlds growing population. Although its convenient you are often times "stuck" with a lot of other people. Most of them are really amazing souls, but you don't get that solitary feeling you get camping back home. This is especially so on the Great Walks. Walking the tracks sometimes is a barrage of "Hello", "Good day", "Hi there", "Cheers" and "How it goes there mate?". Its a scene reminiscent of the movie "Spys Like Us". "Doctor" "Doctor". "Doctor". "Doctor".....

But mainly you walk around taking amazing pictures because everywhere you look is amazing. I got up at 4am to take that picture of Mt. Cook above.

Speaking of pictures. For you people out there that turned your noses at the fact that I bought a Nikon for this trip. Listen to this. I was on my way up to the Mueller Hut and the track was very very steep. My Nikon D60 slipped out of the pocket on my pack (mind you it was out of its case..naked) and started tumbling down the mountains side on bare rock. It was one of those moments..like in a movie..where the character turns, everything turns to slow motion, he sees what is happening and yells.."NOOOOOOOO". I watched as my brand new camera tumbled over rocks and flipped in the air several times for about 30 meters straight down the mountain side. (me bouncing down the mountain after it). The damage. Nothing. Yep. Nothing but a few small scratches and a bent polarizer filter on the end of my lens which I replaced cheaply. And it still took that picture of Mt. Cook. I am I lucky? Yes. I am smart for buying a Nikon? Yes. They know how to make cameras.


Side thought for the day: Did anyone else think that Dick Cheney during the Obama inauguration looked like old man Potter from the movie "Its a Wonderful Life'?

Distance walked to Mueller Hut: 5.2 Km (3.23 miles)
Distance walked on trip so far: 22.63 Km (14.06 miles)

Southern Skies, Southern Burgers

I have made it to Christchurch-the largest city on the south island and again I am bewildered as to what Kiwis do in their cities. There is simply not a lot to do in the towns. Don't get me wrong. With its trams and churches it has the most European feel of all the cities so far and I like the feel of it. It has a wonderful square in the middle that has a life size chess set and a church by the same name. There was one night when we hit the town with some Kiwis and a very strange British girl who looked like Pocahontas. (More on Pocahontas). This is where Rachel comes into the picture. She is really good at meeting random people and getting them to go out. I met Rachel four years ago when I was island hopping in Greece. She is a crazy Aussie who I spent about four days with on the island of Ios partying like mad until the sun came up. Its just what you did in Ios. Anyway..we kept in touch and I had plans to see her in Melbourne, Australia at the end of my trip. She had some holiday time now and never had been to New Zealand so she flew in for about five days. I was glad for the company again as I knew we got along traveling just fine. Besides she is a hoot. We rented another car and off we went. (with an attached picture of George Bush on our ceiling for the fun of it)

First we went to Wanaka.

Wanaka is a sleepy little town right outside of Mt. Aspiring National Park. We only spent a night there but it was nice. I get really disoriented down here. It doesn't get dark here until about 10:30pm at night so the days are really long. Just about everyday at 9:30pm I look to see what time it is and I go, "its that late"? I feel like I am in Alaska with the snow capped mountains and it never getting dark. But eventually it does get dark and the stars come out. That night we sat around the common table at our hostel talking to other travelers when suddenly Rachel pulled me outside and proceeded to point to the night sky. It was a clear night, one of the few we have had. The air had a slight crisp to it-as if mountains were towering near by-and the stars where out in abundance. I had mentioned to Rachel that I hadn't seen the Southern Cross yet and there she was grinning and pointing right at it. And it was clear as day. For those who haven't seen it.. it looks something like this. It was fitting to see if for the first time in this rustic ski town in the mountains. And to have it pointed out by a long time friend who I met doing that same thing I am doing now. It was that moment that I really believed I was supposed to be there...doing just what I was doing as often times I have my doubts. But enough about that.

We moved onto Queenstown where we found the best hostel in the world. Sometimes what makes or breaks a town for you is the place you stay and the people you meet there. And out of all the hostels that I have been to in my life I can't think of a better atmosphere to base a hostel on. It simply felt like home. More on this later (The Last Resort). Queenstown actually surprised me. It is for all intense purposes the "adventure"capitol of the world. So naturally I thought it was going to be loud and full of tourists. It may be touristy, but its not overdone and over the top and it has some of the most remarkable scenery in New Zealand. And it has now become my unofficial base of operations for the southern half of the South Island. Little did I know that I would be returning here again and again. Some places just effect you that way.

Something worth noting about Wanaka and Queenstown. They are only about an hours drive apart from each other and both situated on a lake back dropped by mountains. Being quite similar they have developed a bit a of rivalry in the most unusual way. Both have gourmet burger joints that are infamous among Kiwis and travelers alike. Since Queenstown is more frequented by travelers its "Fergburger" is a bit more well known. But fame does NOT equal quality. (although i have to admit that Fergburger has much more wacky website) After sampling both it is my strong belief (and those of Rachel's, the Israelis that I hung out with in Queentown, and Caitlin's-an American that I watched the inauguration with) that Wanaka's "Red Star" takes the cake hands down. We even started a Facebook group in case your interested. You know..because trying to figure out what burger is better might keep you up at night. But I would go back any day to Wanaka for a BBG burger (about the size of my head) with pineapple, aolie, salad with a side order of the Cajun fries and Aolie sauce from Red Star Gourmet Burgers.

Better go work that burger off...

We move unto the highest mountain in New Zealand next.

American...A good vintage

After a nights stay in Napier on the Hawk's bay of the North Island (great little sea town that is all Art deco due to an earthquake that leveled the city in the 30's and they had to rebuild in the style of the time) we made our way to Wellington. This is where David and I finally parted ways. It was good to travel with someone for my first week and a half to get all those jitters out about traveling in a new place by yourself. But by the time Wellington came around I was ready to go out on my own.

Wellington is probably New Zealand's most liberal city. It reminded me a lot of San Fransisco with it's steep hills and young vibe. Its the capital of New Zealand, but leave it to Kiwi's to understate their importance to build a capital building that "underwhelms" the national spirit. It basically looks like a big 1970's beehive. I actually had to ask someone where the capital building was and they pointed it out. I said, "THAT?". Wellington also has one of the greatest free things in NZ. The Te Papa National Museum. They have on display there the worlds only Giant Squid. This was the one that the Japanese caught live last year. I also had my first couch surfing experience in Wellington. A guy named Robert put me up in his flat with his three other flatmates. He was actually really great. He took me out one night on Cuba street for what's called a Sunday roast. If i were to guess...I would say that there was enough meat on this plate to account for just about the whole pig, a few cows and a chicken or two. I didn't eat for three days afterword.

The next day I crossed the cook strait and for the first time saw the hills of the south island watching in the distance. I think that is when I started to relax a bit. I have been uneasy the past weeks trying to figure out if I have enough time to do all the hikes I want to do. This is the real New Zealand I came for. And each day I become more excited at the possibility of mountains, glaciers and enough scenery to make you bow down and worship the boulders, trees and small woodland creatures. But before that a little drinking first...

My first stop on the south island was a little town called Renwick. Its right in the heart of New Zealands Wine country. (Thank you Aaron and Claire for this wonderful suggestion). I took a day and rented a bike and visited about six wineries in the area having several tastings at each. I hadn't eaten lunch or breakfast. Lets just say I was "pissed" by the end of the day. What I walked away with that day, besides a splitting headache large enough to move the mountains ,was two-fold.

One. I have discovered Fromm wine is now my favorite NZ label. They make an amazing Riesling that I am going to try very hard to find in the States when I get back.

Two. I had a really great conversation with the lady a the Fromm Wine Tasting. She was very much versed in American politics and we were talking about the worldwide economic problems. She was very much Pro-Obama and she was pro-fix America's economy. (mind you she was a Kiwi) Her Point. Simple. America is still very much still the super power. If America goes down, the rest of the worlds economies goes with it. It made me realize just how interwoven the American grape is in the world. Traveling abroad and being American is both a blessing and a curse. On one hand we are very much respected for our importance in the world and looked to for our leadership. On the other hand we are very much looked down upon for our importance in the world and our backward leadership. (and sometimes the way we act..case in point -the two drunk Americans being rude at the Maori Cultural experience I attended in Roturua). But one thing is for sure. Everywhere I have gone thus far the Obama umbrella of "hope" seems to be blanketing over the countryside. And it seems the American election is much more popular than their own politics. That is a sign of our involvement in the world and the littlest changes that vibrate throughout our country has twice the repercussions in other countries.

Maybe I can use some of that Obama umbrella to shield me from the ozone hole that is sitting on top of New Zealand and slowly cooking me from the inside out.

I have been Zorbed.

Leave it to the Kiwi's to invent a sport where you blow up a big air filled ball, but a little water in it, run to a top of a hill, put you inside of it, let you roll down the hill inside of it trying to stay on your feet, laughing all the way, and then let you slide out of it like you were just birthed, and then charge an exorbitant amount of money to do it. Ah....I love this place.....

Driving on the Wrong Side of the Road

It must have been good to be the King of England. For when his Majesty promptly declared that all of his lands and colonies should drive on the left hand side of the road his worlds simply folded to his wishes. He never had to worry whether he was doing the right thing at the time, his wishes were simply the right thing. I could only imagine that such unchecked power would be a dangerous thing. Hence now..for generations New Zealanders now drive on the left hand side of the road as a result. For us everyday folk who meander down our own roads it is not so easy to discern whether it is the right path or not. We cannot make our path right by simple command. We explore and feel the right path by heading down the road. If we should discover that it is the wrong path, fortunately there are many opportunities for a roundabout.

David and I have been able to hire a car and it has freed us from the traditional stops of the tourist circuits. I actually quite like like driving on the left hand side of the road. It's generally the same as driving in the states, however if you keep left you are usually "safe". The biggest adjustment is the fact that the turn signal is now on the right side of the wheel as opposed to the left. Just about every time I have gone to make a turn I have turned the wind shield whippers on instead of my turn signal. David has learned that its time to take a turn when the whippers come on. Speaking of David..he is much worse on getting a handle on driving on the left. In fact.. he is just about the worse driver I have encountered. Very Bad. Worse than bad. He drives like he is 75 years old bad. Like he slows down at every curve not matter what bad. Going constantly under the speed limit and being passed by everyone bad. Getting the finger on more than one occasion bad. Keeping the windshield whippers on even though it is not raining because he cant figure out how to turn them off and cant peel his eyes off the road bad. Like hitting side view mirrors on parked cars bad. Turning a 3 hour trip from Napier to Wellington into a 5.5 hour trip bad. Lets just say that I have taken to most of the driving and this is the last time I will ever rent a car with a Frenchman...

Being off the usual tourist routes has led me to think about a few things. By doing so we have removed ourselves from the stream of moving people that you meet..the people on the bus that go to the same place you do because everyone is caught in the same current. We are now moving under out own paddle. I think we often run under our own steam and direction in our everyday lives. To much so sometimes and I wonder if we miss out sometimes because we are blinded by our own need to drive a certain direction. Perhaps that is why we grow so old so quickly. We are so absorbed by our own direction that one day we wake up and we are old. Or maybe we drive ourselves against the current because its what we feel we do for whatever reason. Obligation. Occupation. The need to fill a void.

Perhaps its better to just follow the signs of the road and make the best decisions for turns when we can.. So instead of constantly writing about the random things that I am doing I would like to propose a question. Where does one draw the line between controlling what their path in life is and letting the path that has been given them reveal itself? Its a question I will come back to as I move forward on this journey. For now..I think its a good mix of both...or are we simply just driving down the wrong side of the road all the time?

Time, as wise as it is, always tells....

Hobbits & Volcanoes

As with any marriage or union there is compromise. Sometimes you dictate the rules and sometime the other person does. I suppose that is life. Such is the same when traveling with another person. Even if it is just for a few short number of days. I have vowed not to be too touristy on this trip. Not to visit to many towns that claim this or that. But like I said... there has to be compromises.

So after missing our bus and finally getting out of the bay of islands, David and I started making our way down to Taupo in the center of the North Island. The plan was to hook up with my friend Danni (who I had met on couchsurfing) for a hike of the Tongariro Crossing. Which is widely hailed as "The greatest Day Hike" in New Zealand. (more on this spectacle later). But first, David was insistent of a stop first. This little stop was nestled in the back 10 acres of a farm somewhere between Auckland and Rotorua. Most of you know it as Hobbiton in the movie "The Lord of the Rings" Now do I care about seeing a few hills that doubled as the Shire in a movie that was filmed 10 years ago? The answer is yes and no. Yes because I love those movies and no because *christ* it was 58 NZD and its got to be a tourist trap..right? (I am on a budget here). Now, I will admit when I am wrong and when necessary I will open mouth and insert foot. So consider this me opening my mouth and inserting my foot. This place is not only beautiful, but special and it is no wonder that Peter Jackson chose it. If you are ever traveling on Hwy 1 in the north island outside of Rotorua stop by for a few hours. You truly will have visited Middle Earth. I am attaching a picture of "The Shire". Any one recognize that tree. Oh and the set was on a sheep farm so they showed us how to shear sheep. I thought I would include a video for your educational benefits. Please enjoy.

Isn't that guy hot?

After our LOTR adventure we arrived in Taupo and yesterday we hiked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This is basically a traverse through a couple of Volcanoes in Tongariro National Park and is generally considered the greatest day hike in New Zealand. Speaking of Lord of the Rings one of the Volcanoes that hiked up was one that doubled as Morador in the movies. But before I get into more Volcanoes how about some more sheep Shearing eh? Who doesn't love some good ol' fashioned sheep shearing?

Wow. That is fascinating.

Ok back to Volcanoes. So I did the hike with one of my dorm mates Abbie from Manchester England. She turned out to be an awesome hiker so we got along well. We actually summited one of the volcanoes and made it back for the early bus in less time than what they said was possible. Now I have hiked quite a number of volcanoes in my travels and I have concluded that they pretty much all look the same. But it was a good day. We were on the highest point of the north island and the weather was beautiful. (although a bit windy ). But I have noticed something about New Zealand. There are only two things that can kill you here. Yourself by doing one of the many crazy things that are readily available throughout the country..things like skydiving and bungee jumping and the other is the sun. Man is it brutal down here. But enough about Volcanoes and things that can kill you. Lets get back to some sheep shearing! I don't want any of you waking up in the middle of the night in a cold sweat wondering how to shear a sheep. So I will leave you this last video.

I am off to Rotorua and then some other place that David wants and then eventually down to Wellington where my friend Rachel from Australia will hopefully be arriving. "Hopefully" is the operative word here. Ciao.

Distance hiked on Tangoriro Crossing: 19.4 km (12.05 miles)

Distance hiked on trip thus far: 19.4 km (12.05 miles)

Bounds without Leaps

We live in a great age and I already come bounds. Its amazing to me what technology can do. Not only have I catapulted into the southern hemisphere but also two days into the future and into a totally new year fresh and in a new place. And the only thing I had to do was step unto a plane. I have already come bounds with out even leaping.

And I am not alone. Since the moment I stepped on the plane I have had a friend to travel with. This time in comes in the form of a Frenchmen and we have taken to traveling together quite well. (it also helps that we had roughly the same itinerary and he makes fun of the fact that I am American and I that fact that he is French). But some logistical stuff before the stories. New Zealand is (oh gosh I am about to say it) *wicked expensive*. Everyone is on holiday right now so nothing is available and Kiwi's are super nice even though their dress is an interesting mix of hodge-podge and outdoorism. Needless to say the first day I got here i was a bit bummed.
But throw in a little adventure and all that changes.

We decided to head up to the Bay of Islands to kill a couple of days before I meet a friend on couchsurfing in Tuopo for a famous hike in the middle of the north island. The Bay of island is a beautiful harbor on the extreme north of the north island where captain cook first sailed to New Zealand. When we got here we immediately befriended our bus driver (Tony-Kiwi) and Axou (Belgian) and we rented small catamarans. David (my french travel mate) had never been on a sail boat before. We raced against Tony and Axou in the other boat and here is where I insert that fact that it was totally worth it to get my sailing certification this summer. With that being said I tried to get the boat to do something that it was not designed to do. (aka tack when it is only used for jibing) and I capsized the boat. David (in his thick French accent) politely in his French way inquired whether or not we were going to get rescued. I said we are on our own mate. To make a long story short, we were able to right the boat again and I was able to get it back to shore despite an incoming storm and a very strong head wind and not have to stick our heads between our legs in shame and be rescued. It was the perfect start to an New Zealand adventure.

I have also forgotten what "hosteling" is like. It like having a 100 friends that all want to hang out with you at the same time. So that evening I went out with a bunch of people from around the world until very late in the morning. And I have yet to meet a single American.

Today we went sailing again on a (much bigger boat) for day trip through the islands. They had snorkeling, BBQ, kayaking and hiking on one of the island. I know I haven't seen any of the really good stuff yet, but this place is amazingly beautiful. Its enough to start talking to the trees and I haven't even been to the south island yet and the mountains that are calling me. The weather was perfect and they even let me run some of the lines on the boat. I am attaching a picture of our boat (above) and some of the islands so your jaws can drop. Our boat is the big red one in the bottom of the picture. (and so far I am liking my Nikon D60)

Tomorrow back to Auckland (which has very little to do) and then down to Taupo where I am hiking Tangarro Crossing. (The Lord of the Rings was shot here)

I will end with this as this is costing me a small fortune. I am alive and well and finally opening my sails up. You constantly have to pay for Internet here so I will probably write infrequently but long when I do. See you next in the Volcanoes of Tangarro National Park.